So...I know it has been quite a while since
my last update, some of you are new friends, some of you are
old friends, and some of you are old friends who I hadn't
heard from in a long time but just sent me a great email from
Peru (thanks Coby). For those of you who haven't been kept
up to date Cody and I have been on the road for the last year,
with a few months spent at home in Idaho last summer and over
the holidays. The plan was to drive from Alaska to Chile.
We are currently in Nicaragua, after spending a month in Panama
it became quite apparent that the money it would cost to ship
our beloved shag wagon around the Darien Gap in southern Panama
was going to be too much. The lowest price we found was from
Colon into Colombia for 1300 dollars before customs taxes
on both sides (another 300) along with posting a bond equal
to 80 percent of the value of the car (another 2000). If we
wanted to go into Ecuador the shipping cost was around 2000.
The bond would be returned when the car left South America...which
it probably wouldn't once it was there. Another option was
selling the car and flying into South America but finding
a buyer for the shag wagon who was willing to pay the price
we were asking was easier said then done, and since we couldn't
leave the car in Panama for more than a month without the
government repossessing it the decision was made for us. After
a few long days of deliberation in Panama City we flipped
a U turn and headed back north. A bit disappointed at first
but excited to see the friends we had made on the drive down
again. We convinced a friend from Ketchum to meet us in Costa
Rica and make the trip north with us. We were only an hour
north of Panama city when the suburban's invincibility came
crumbling down as the rear differential ruptured, stripping
the bearing and spraying differential fluid all over the axel,
causing the whole thing to smoke terribly. It took two very
interesting days in a little town called Bejuco (a story all
its own) to fix the problem. Then the battery died...then
a tire blew out...then we got horribly stuck on the beach.
By the time we made it out of Panama there were eight of us
inside the shag wagon (another story of its own). After two
weeks in Costa Rica we crossed the border into Nicaragua about
a week ago, cementing our commitment to drive back. Since
the mishaps in Panama the car has been running great, even
though we had another tire blow out in Northern Costa Rica.
Despite the change of plans our spirits our high, thanks to
our new traveling companion Jay, and the possibility of meeting
up with friends in El Salvador and Puerto Escondido. Throughout
it all the waves have been good, keeping us fit and happy
as surfing provides such a positive mind set...all the problems,
inconveniences, and sweaty heat seem to disappear in the water
leaving only a sense of adventure, accomplishment, and joy
when recalling all the different people, places, and experiences
that have touched us along the way. We are planning on staying
in Nicaragua for another week before heading north through
Honduras and into El Salvador.
There are so many stories to tell, but Ill save
the majority for when I can share them with you face to face.
It has been great to hear from all of you, the 21st century
continues to amaze me as I get emails from friends in Australia,
South Africa, Peru, Brazil, Germany, England, and all over
America. Whether you're a new friend or an old one, it is,
and has been a pleasure.
All good things,
Kitt
P.S Another piece of exciting news was a commission
to write an article about our travels for Men's Journal, so
keep an eye out for that.
_______________________________
February 19, 2005:
Hello everyone! I know it has been quite some
time since my last e-mail update so I thought I would explain.
In early December Cody and I flew back to Idaho to see family
and friends as well as make some more money working on the
mountain. It was a wonderful holiday season, snow, which seemed
to be in short supply when we arrived came quickly and heavily
as a series of storms dropped over four feet of lightpowder.
One lasting memory is skiing through powder so light and fluffy
it felt like mist when it hit your face, lacing your hat and
goggles with fine crystals of snow. The hussle and bussle
of the holiday season was quite a change of pace from life
on the road, days passed rapidly within the flurry of activity
and before I knew it I was back on a plane headed south again,
unable to sit still. Two nights after arriving I was sleeping
on top of the suburban, glad to be back on the road, and a
bit overwhelmed by suddenness of the past two months. That
morning I awoke to a family of howler monkeys examining me
as I intruded on their treetop house with my car top bedroom.
Their curious eyes examining every inch of me...then slowly
moving to the next tree as I stared back, slackjawed as one
let out a characteristic growl...ending my plans for sleeping
in. Six days after arriving in Costa the shag wagon's invincibility
came to an end. A shock mount twisted and broke leaving both
shocks dangling underneath the car. Not the end of the world,
but a chink in the arom nonetheless. So we took off the shocks
and continued on with just the leaf spring, thinking about
different ways to fix the problem. It took about a week, some
guy knew some guy who had a welding torch. His name was Jay...find
Jay and he can fix it...easier said than done. It took some
asking but we finally located Jay, he knew just what to do,
fixed it in an hour...he didn't want any money so we took
him out to dinner and listened as he told us about his trip
south in 1987, right through three different civil wars...our
trip seemed quite mild and pleasant in comparison. After finding
the right size bolt...again, easier said than done, a local
mechanic worked some magic, came up with the bolt, and even
put the shocks back on...he didn't want any money either,
so we bought him a beer and slipped some cash into his pocket.
Life in Costa Rica is good, the living is easy and slow and
the waves have provided plenty of entertainment. We head south
into Panama this week and I'm looking forward to moving again.
I'm not sure what will become of the shag wagon but will keep
you posted. I also have a new digital camera (thank you mom
and dad) so will be sending some pictures along shortly.
As they say in Costa, Pura Vida
-Kitt
_______________________________
Thanksgiving
11-23-04:
So...It's almost thanksgiving, and I'm here in Honduras....having
left El Salvador this morning and the perfect right hand point
breaks that litter its coastline. For the past six days we
have been camped on a family's farm, steps away from the beach,
sheltered in the cool shade of palm trees, amidst the many
animals that served as an unforgiving alarm clock every morning.
From roosters and hens to ducks el rancho de José was the
source of constant amusement and hardly a dull moment. Along
with the ducks and cocks there were two gelotes... commonly
known as turkeys. From the minute we set foot on the farm,
those two bastards... affectionately named "Navidad" and "Cumpleanos
de José" in honor of when they will find their way to the
dinner table. Both male, strutting around all day, puffed
up like body builders as they tried in vain for the affection
of the lone mature female...who spent most her time avoiding
them....on the morning of the second day, as they clucked
and strutted around me while I brushed my teeth I made a conscious
decision to see how tough these turkeys really were. I sat
and stared at them...they took this personally, puffed up
even more and one in particular (we'll just call him Brava)
turned a slow circle...giving me ample time to view his tail
feathers and basically mooning me in the process...this I
wouldn't stand for and I approached him, stamping my feet
on the ground and trying to look intimidating...Brava didn't
give an inch...just stared incredulously back at me......so
I came at the cheeky bastard whooping and hollering to let
him know who was boss....then he charged me and that whooping
hollering war cry turned into a yelp of fear and surprise
as he flopped his useless wings, and came hopping toward me
gobbling and kicking his talons at me....I ran away. He followed
me, around the car and into plain view of José and his family...who
immediately started laughing hysterically...I was not laughing.
Once again I turned toward him and once again he charged,
this time scraping my shins and causing me to yelp again....after
a few more seconds José's fourteen year old daughter came
to my rescue, calmly grabbing old Brava's tail and neck in
one deft movement and shooing him into the shed....My only
solace is knowing that the bastard's days are numbered...and
for all of you who are eating turkey this holiday season do
not feel the slightest remorse for those small brained, flightless,
poor excuses for birds....
Happy thanksgiving...
Kitt and Cody
_______________________________
November 4, 2004:
Two weeks in Puerto Escondido....This
is the longest Cody and I have been in one place since early
August. Life is slow here, slow and consistent lending itself
easily to a certain type of routine. There are also the waves...big
and powerful they offer both intense excitement and challenge
every day. The waves here also equal their beauty in force.
The early morning offshore winds blow the spray from the wave
crests into the sun creating rainbows in the mist, and then
the sight of those waves breaking in perfect cylinders, expending
all their energy in a single frightful detonation of air and
water leaves the ocean trembling. To ride these waves takes
my breath away, even now as I type goose bumps rise on my
skin. To feel their power rolling me along the sand instills
respect and awe deep within me. The combination of comfort
and excitement has also given us an opportunity to take a
breath. To use the calm felt after an intense morning to reflect,
to allow the experiences and memories of the last three, and
arguably the last six, months to settle in...
Last night as I lay comfortably on my
bed, a high powered fan whirring above keeping me cool and
giving my mind a meditative hum, I let myself drift in my
thoughts. Sensations flashed before me...the excited nervousness
as the departure date approached...the hundreds of scraps
of paper each with a to do list of some sort scratched upon
them....the heat in Portland, melting everything but the change
in the center consul.....elephant seals in Oregon....sunlight
shimmering through the misty redwoods...friends and familiarity
in Santa Barbara...quick flash to surfing under the full moon
while we were there....crossing the border in Mexico, knowing
only that this time that familiar border looked different,
felt different....feeling the road bend south, taking us towards
something...not knowing what....time slowly drifting away
as the potholed road seemed to bump us into the past...a hurricane,
endured in the loving arms of a car that has seen me grow,
has taken me to Disney World, to Idaho, it waited for us....it
celebrated my 21st birthday with me, drove 27 hours straight
from Wisconsin to Idaho to get ready, and now it is with us,
sitting silently along side us waiting to take us further
into this life....the ferry ride....the pinche broken aire
aconditionare....fixing it...meeting and staying with the
Aussies, as we sang and talked loudly in celebration of nothing
more than friendship....the colorful towns we rumble slowly
through...and the beaches, mountains, and rivers that connect
them all...there is a beauty in traveling slowly, allowing
the road and time to bend with each other until they become
one...
We are leaving tomorrow, heading south
into Central America, through the mountains of Guatemala and
into El Slavador...I do not know what we will find but I am
certain it will be something...
-Kitt
_______________________________
September 27, 2004:
This is by far the longest e-mail I have ever
written so forgive me in advance for being so long winded.
I am currently sitting in the beautiful town
of La Paz, on the eastern side of Baja, sipping a beer and
reflecting on the last few weeks. Tomorrow we will try to
board the ferry to Mazatlan but nothing is for sure right
now and I have a story to tell. A story about hurricanes (two
of them), mis-information about said hurricanes, kiwi travelers
who have enjoyed the shag wagon's comforts (and sweatyness),
muddy roads, impassible roads, big waves, perfect waves...adventure,
of course.
This story starts with my last e-mail, some
twenty days ago, in the midst of a downpour due to Hurricane
Howard. As soon as I logged off two wet travelers in a Suburban
similar to ours pulled up on their way to Scorpion Bay. We
asked if they knew about the road, they said they did, and
it turned out that one of the guys had written the directions
that we were going to follow. With that confidence we left
early the next morning on what can only be considered as an
epic drive, 4 1/2 hours through the bumpiest, muddiest roads
I've ever encountered. Add to this the hilarity of Mark and
Shaun (our fellow travelers) as they would stop abruptly and
randomly, jump out of the car, crack beers and smoke a cigarette
as they stomped around the car pausing briefly to bend over
and look at the under carriage...only for a second before
carrying on. Sure enough their rear shock broke...they weren't
worried about it. Keep on keepin' on ya know. So after four
hours of fishtailing through drainage ditches and wet sand
we found ourselves looking at the ultimate arroyo, a full
on river that was about three feet deep with current...only
twenty minuets away from Scorpion Bay. We were nervous, walking
around in the river trying to figure it out, then...out of
nowhere Matt comes storming across the river, beer in hand
and all smiles screaming "we made it! we made it!" This is
the same guy who had that tire blowout on him, the guy we
were traveling with before the rain started. He was in the
smallest two wheel drive Toyota truck, it's ignition consisted
of a screwdriver jammed in the key hole that you could turn
from previous mishaps with the old truck. He put plastic bags
over everything, and just charged through in the true spirit
of adventure so we thought, "no way does that car make it
and the saggin' wagon get stuck" so Cody jumped behind the
wheel as I filmed the escapade...needless to say we made it,
over tire deep on the suburban! I have no idea how Matt and
his Toyota made it across but...
So, Scorpion Bay, round 1. Good waves but old
Hurricane Howard came to close to shore chopping up the waves
with south wind and dumping more rain. There were some really
long rides but for the most part it was just a teaser showing
us a little but promising so much more. So we were off again,
south to Cabo and the east Cape, the rains had brought the
desert to life and the coastal mountains were as green and
lush as Hawaii. We hung out around Todos Santos for a few
days surfing and relaxing...then news came of another hurricane
off the coast, bigger than the last, Javier turned out to
rule our lives for the past ten days. Everyone had a different
story, no one knew shit. We chased the waves down around the
east cape, encountering huge hurricane surf at Shipwrecks,
double overhead plus and just continuous, it beat us up but
at the end we were smiling having lucked into a few.
Mexican Independence found us in San Jose del
Cabo for a great night of dancing and partying. We didn't
want to get stuck on the east cape during the hurricane which
we heard was coming right for us so we bailed, headed north
back to Todos Santos, surfed big waves there but then we heard
Javier had turned around the peninsula and was now headed
straight for Todos...great! We figured this swell would be
perfect for Scorpion so we just blitzed up there...saw a bunch
of cars going the other way but, too bad for them we thought.
When we pulled into San Jaunico the waves were just perfect,
offshore winds and not a sign of old Javier....Woke up the
next day to more of the same, just laughing since no one was
there. Then we went to the cantina for lunch...yep, that dick
Javier had decided to pass on Cabo and head right into central
Baja, gunning directly at us up in Scorpion Bay...shit, what
to do...blow off the warnings and keep surfing...good idea.
We saw it coming from way off, a big mass of dark clouds just
barreling towards us, the wind picked up steadily and as we
tied down our tent we were convinced it would just barely
hit us.....wrong again. The kiwis tent next to ours was in
shambles within an hour, our tent started leaking profusely
after that. We collapsed the tents, which was an ordeal to
say the least, threw everything we had into the middle of
the Suburban then crawled into the back while the kiwis hunkered
down in the front seats.
The wind was vicious, topping out around 80
mph at the light house right next to our camp. The whole car
was shaking under the gusts, rocking back and forth like an
ocean going ship. Nobody slept. To make things more surreal
in the middle of the night a flare went off directly below
us on the rocks, and cars started showing up. With first light
the rain and wind began to decline and we stumbled out of
the car to find the whole town of San Juanico surrounding
us, a fishing boat had gotten washed onto the rocks right
below us. So we pulled and pushed that fu#$ing boat along
the shore dislodging it from the rocks and cliffs a number
of times in the large surf. The reward was indeed sweet however
as the waves pumped for the next six days. I'll let the pictures
and video speak for themselves but I caught some of the best
waves of my life thanks to Javier so....was it worth it...who
knows, I am, how ever still smiling
-Kitt
_______________________________
August 29, 2004:
Hello from San Diego.
After a whirlwind tour of Southern California
the fundraisers are now complete, which is somewhat of a relief.
They all went extremely well and were met with a positive
response. It often amazed me just how interested people were
in what we're doing. Everybody had something to contribute,
often bending over backwards to help us any way they could.
From contacts and recommendations to advice, and even directions
the out pouring of support was phenomenal. I can now say that
our fifteen minutes of fame have come and gone (thank god)
and we are getting ready to head into Mexico on Tuesday. Last
minute errands include an oil change, a costco run, and maybe
a sushi dinner. My mind has been wandering as of late dreaming
about exploring new places and meeting new faces. Sometimes
I can't controll my smile as I bubble over with excitement
and at other times the whole trip seems daunting and intimidating
causing the anxiety levels to rise. I appreciate both sensations
equally as one inevitably feeds the other as excitement turns
to anxiety which turns to focus and then excitement again.
However, I am looking forward to crossing
the border and putting some distance behind us, as well as
escaping the crowds and traffic of southern california. The
car has been running beautifully although I am a bit apprehensive
about how it will perform on the dirt roads in Baja. All in
all our time on the west coast was fantastic and I feel confident
and prepared to head south...All we need now are waves. I
am also looking forward to getting on my own schedule again,
the event planning and organizing was quite alot of work and
it will be nice to be somewhere for longer than two or three
days. Our first stop is Scorpion Bay in Southern Baja and
then on down to Cabo San Lucas. I am not sure how the internet
connections will be along the way but I will try to write.
Adios -Kitt
_______________________________
August 16, 2004:
Hello from San Francisco!
After a beautiful drive down the Oregon and
Northern Californian coast, the mist slowly rising as we drove
through the redwoods allowing sun to filter in creating the
most beautiful streaks of light as it made its way through
the massive trees. Surfed in Gold Beach, Oregon. The water
was freezing, although the only other person in the line up
was a 12 year old girl who didn't seem cold at all. She also
didn't seem intimidated by the huge pack of sea lions who
were surfing and fishing with us. One of them swam by the
other fisherman on the Jetty rocks with a 30lb salmon in it's
mouth just to show off. The biggest of the group was also
the most avid surfer, riding the draft behind the breaking
waves. When his wave was finished he would rear his head up
and let out an enormous growl...I don't care if the little
girl wasn't intimidated I thought it was downright frightening.
After an interesting night at a free campground
in Humboldt County complete with an off duty cop spraying
mase on a dreadlocked kid (who we didn't see again) we were
off. Arriving in San Francisco to meet up with some friends
for the weekend. What a great weekend, we surfed beautiful,
fun waves in Half Moon bay all weekend long, saw some great
live music, and generally had a grand old time in the city.
We're off down the coast tomorrow on our way to Santa Barbara.
So far it has been a dream as we slowly ease into the pace
and freedom of life on the road.
-Kitt and Cody
_______________________________
August 11, 2004:
Hello everybody,
just a quick note to let everyone know we're
on our way! After a wonderful weekend on Petit lake, and a
few days kayaking the Payette river system we are now in Portland.
The car, or Shaggin' Wagon, ran beautifully yesterday, even
though it was tested by a number of long, high passes (read
big hills), and even Portland rush hour in 100 degree heat...so
we're happy about that. Staying with some friends from school
here before heading to the coast tomorrow or the next day,
then on through California, the fundraiser planning has been
coming along, we have four scheduled events along the California
coast in the next few weeks so if you're in California give
us a call.
Hope all else is well,
-Kitt
_______________________________
June 15, 2004:
To my esteemed professors,
I am sorry it has been so long since I last
wrote you. Life has been rollicking along at breakneck speed.
However, I wanted to let you know that I have been on the
road since April driving from Alaska through the great expanses
of northern Canada and finally back into Sun Valley where
the car is parked for the next month. After this short respite
we, my brother, Kaspar (who arrives in one month), and I will
continue south exploring and documenting the pacific watershed
systems. We have been focussing on the environmental and cultural
conditions that exist within each watershed system. The experiences
we have already had are numerous. From Helicopter skiing in
the Chilkat mountains of southeastern Alaska to kayaking the
spring runoff in Canada and the northwestern United States.
The old Suburban has held up beautifully thus far (knock on
wood) giving me a renewed faith in American manufacturing.
We have been trying to schedule different meetings and interviews
along the way. There really hasn't been any real common thread
between these different paople, besides them being people
we like and respect. People who are willing to share their
own experiences and adventures with us on our adventure.
I would really like to meet with you both if
fate puts us in the same place at the same time. We will be
coming through California sometime in mid august. I understand
that this is during summer vacation but if you will be in
the area please let me know. I can hardly wait to explore
the many countries that lie ahead of us in the south and hope
to share some of my experiences with you along the way. It
has been a dream thus far as each day brings with it a bigger
world.
I also thought it would be interesting for you
to know that I had the opprotunity to spend some time with
the next presidential hopeful John Kerry. Suffice to say what
I learned while at UCSB impressed him a great deal, along
with the Global Studies major. I feel somewhat obligated to
pass that compliment on to you, take it how you like.
Alright, I have written enough. I hope this
letter finds you enjoying your next adventure and would love
to hear from you.
All good things,
Kitt Doucette
_______________________________
December 2, 2003:
Hey Mark,
I just wanted to see what you've been up to
and let you know how I've been doing. This summer was a crazy
one. I was working as a transportation engineer, which is
basically just a fancy way of saying delivery boy, on a fairly
large scale. I criss crossed the country three times delivering
and picking up Computer equipment, setting it up and taking
it down. It was a wonderful way to see the country, as the
job took me to places I would never have visited on my own.
Such marvelous places as Lawton, Oklahoma and Amarillo, Texas.
To say I stuck out in these towns would be an understatement
but that was actually one of the best parts. The conversations
you have at a roadside cafe when you are lost in Alabama are
simply priceless.
After two months of driving I was able to escape
to Hawaii and Costa Rica for a little over a month which was
phenomenal. Planning the Alaska to Chile trip has been coming
along as well. We actually signed on with our first sponsor
a little over a week ago which was pretty exciting, I will
send you a write up of the trip so you can see the direction
that we are taking with it. Our basic approach is one combining
the history and culture of each place we visit with the impact
adventure travel has had on the local economy, environment,
and culture.
We are also working with Surfrider's new "Watershed
Protection" policy to raise awareness about the connection
between the snow in the mountains, the water in the rivers,
and the ocean and beach. I could talk your ear off about the
trip but suffice to say it is progressing and continues to
provide challenge and excitement in my life.
Global & International
Studies Program
University of California, Santa Barbara
Room 3044, Humanities & Social Sciences Building
Santa Barbara, CA 93106-7065
Tel: (805) 893-7860 Fax: (805) 893-8003 www.global.ucsb.edu