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Letters from Abroad: Paul Stilley in France

Un Bon Voyage
Paul Stilley

Centreville - Grenoble, France
Centreville - Grenoble, France

My year abroad in France was more than just a cultural experience in a foreign country. It was an eleven month voyage around Europe and its surroundings. Of course, being situated in the French Alps in an industrial town called Grenoble, I was in the perfect location to begin traveling in any direction. Upon my arrival, I was first challenged with the grueling and almost impossible task of finding an apartment. Not only is the French real-estate system a collection of rabid thieves and bandits, its workers are also among the worst customer service agents known to mankind. Once an apartment was finally found, my classes began on campus. Being enrolled in two separate universities, Stendhal and Science Politique, I was given vacation time practically every month. This does not go to say that school was easy. The French system of education, unlike the most American universities, is extremely rigorous and usually consists of only one exam given at the end of the term. The exam counts for 100% of the grade. This leads to two likely scenarios in my particular case: plenty of free time until the last minute, and exam cramming like I have never experienced before in my life. On a more positive note, my free time did not go wasted. Within eleven months, half of which was probably spent on trains, I visited over twenty countries and in return, opened my mind to a broader and more global perspective of the world.

University Campus in Grenoble, France
University Campus in Grenoble, France

During the fall, I went on trips to Italy, Switzerland, Germany, England, and Spain. The best part about traveling to these places, as well as around the majority of Europe, is the fact that trains are efficient, rapid, and most importantly cheap. In October, I went to Munich, Germany to experience the world renowned Oktoberfest. It was everything I hoped it would be: a gigantic festival with tents holding thousands of people each with a liter of the best German beer in the world. That same month, I also went on a trip to London. Unfortunately, I missed the train from Grenoble to Paris, took the next one and had to stay in Paris, woke up early the next day to find out that Eurostar (the chunnel train from France to England) was canceled due to a power failure, took a train from Paris to Lille, Lille to Calais, took a ferry from Calais to Dover, and finally took a diesel train from Dover to London. Other than the disastrous journey over there, I had a great time. Before returning back to the States for Christmas vacation, I made a quick trip down to Barcelona as well. It was one of my most favorite cities in Europe. The art, culture, and food around the area makes the city truly unique and vibrant.

Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany
Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany

When I came back from the States in January, winter had rolled into Grenoble. I had never experienced wind chills or biting frost like that in my life. However, on the bright side of it being an icebox, Grenoble received a massive amount of great snow for skiing. I went up to the Alps every weekend that I could to go skiing and it was fantastic. The mountains were enormous and the ski resorts were extremely cheaply priced. After a couple of weeks of that kind of freezing weather, I had had enough and decided to go with some friends down to Morocco for some sun. Starting off in Casablanca, we went north to Fes, Meknes, Marrakesh, and the roman ruins of Volubis. Though we had an amazing time and the food was to die for, we also had some interesting experiences with a false tourist guide in Fes and a seemingly innocent group of Arab girls selling henna drawings. After finishing midterms in late February, some friends and I decided to rent a car and drive to Belgium for the week. Though cars are cheaper than trains, I would not recommend driving in Europe unless you are European or suicidal. To say the least, European road systems are poorly marked, beyond confusing, and downright perilous.

Vista Point from Marrakesh, Morocco
Vista Point from Marrakesh, Morocco

After the trip to Belgium, I returned once again to France where things went fine as always, even with the War in Iraq going on. Being an American in a country completely against our politics was never really a problem. Besides the protests against the war that occurred daily in town that brought trams, buses, and trains to halts, the French were quite passive about the war. While Americans were busy changing fries to freedom fries, the people I met were mostly inquisitive and curious, and always seemed to be able to tell the difference between politics and people. In late April, I went on a trip to Eastern Europe with a decently priced Eurail pass that allowed traveling throughout Austria, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Hungary. Prague and Budapest were without a doubt the highlights of the vacation. Amazingly well preserved cities, their streets and alleys took you back two hundred years and revealed a time and culture that most people tend to overlook when traveling in Europe. When I got back, I've finished my remaining exams and got a job as a bartender at a bar is called the "couche tard" (translation in English: "going to bed late"). It was always jam packed with people and it was a blast to work there. Besides the bartender life, I also had to deal with France's wonderful system of social rights and strikes. That whole month of May, trains, buses, postal services, administration offices all went on strike at some point in time. I would be riding on the bus, the bus will stop, and there would be about 20,000 strikers blocking the street. Even the trash services in town went on strike! As the hot summer weather began rolling in, the build up of trash gave me the motivation to leave once again on a month long vacation with the small amount of money I earned from working at the bar.

Gothic Church in Prague, Czech Republic
Gothic Church in Prague, Czech Republic

I began by heading down to Corsica with a group of friends. Though the island is world renown for the most dangerous roads in Europe (amazing cliff drives that border the coast on little golf cart tracks that yield to two way traffic), we nevertheless rented tiny French cars and went all around the island. Fortunately, we didn't kill ourselves flying over the unbarracaded cliffs, but we did manage to rack up 500 euros in damage taking the cars extreme romping! After the road trip around Corsica, I went to Slovenia and then head down to Greece. On my way over, I noticed that Turkey wasn't too far away, and being that our Eurail passes were valid there as well, we traveled 51 hours on a train to Istanbul. It was a rip off well worth it because Istanbul was incredible. I stayed in a luxury three star hotel for ten euros a night and ate like kings. After Turkey, I went down to Greece, rented scooters, and buzzed around the islands: Santorini, Naxos, Mykonos, and Syros. After Greece, I went back up to Italy to meet some friends in Florence and Rome. This was soon followed by a long journey up to Amsterdam and finally down to Paris for Bastille Day to conclude the voyage.

The Blue Mosque in Istanbul, Turkey
The Blue Mosque in Istanbul, Turkey

There is so much more that can be written about my year abroad than simply my trips and my adventures. However, all the words in the world could not describe in full the insight and personal experience I gained from living, speaking, becoming a part of a foreign culture. Not only did it open my mind to a more global perspective, it also gave me a deeper understanding of the different kinds of people and cultures that exist outside of the United States. As the capital city of the Alps, Grenoble was an ideal location to study abroad. Beautifully surrounded by beautiful mountains and situated on the Drac and Isère rivers, it was a lively, thriving, modern city, home to a university of more than 35,000 students, and more specifically, home to me. Looking back on all my travels and all my experiences, I can say without a doubt that my year abroad was a truly enriching and inspiring part of my life that changed me not only as university student, but as a person as well.


Vista Point, Grenoble, France

 

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