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Dear All,
Greetings from Ghana! Where to start? Everything
here, in retrospect, is an adventure. But when I'm in it,
I dont see it as such, and so when I get your emails about
what an exciting adventure Im living, I really start to feel
brave. So...keep em coming, I need the boost. In all honesty
though, there are times when I think Oh shit, I probably shouldnt
be here or be doing this, or eating this, or this water probably
isnt filtered. The other day, for example, I went to my friend
Pete's site top visit and hike. He lives up in the mountains
(2nd highest in Ghana, but his villagers swear up and down
it the tallest. So you smile and nod) and we planned to hike
to another friend's site. Don's site is about a 2 and a half
hours hike from Pete. No problme. Later that night, another
friend, Marc, showed up at Petes and the plans were set: next
morning we would get up, eat, and the three of us would hike
to Don's (Don works at a monkey sanctuary, so good incentive
and motivation for the sometimes semi-difficult hike).
We woke up the next day (I woke up earlier because
I slept on the floor and so did the frog that woke me up),
made breakfast (eggs and hot chocolate), and, feeling refreshed
and ready to go, we went. Pete said he knew the way so Marc
and I followed. Everything was going well for about an hour,
and then....the wrong turn. "Hey guys, I think we missed
the turn. Should we go back? Its really close, just back there."
Pete says. "No, why bother?" I say, "we can
just turn here, Im sure it will take us to town." I,
foolishly, add. First real lesson we learned in Ghana--all
roads do not lead somewhere, at least not necessarily to where
you want to, or even should, go.
Before we realized it, we were slipping and
sliding down a really steep slope, trying to pretend that
it was a path (though it definately was not), holding on to
every plant we could lay our hands on for balance. When we
finally reached the bottome, we realized that the "bottom"
was a cliff overlooking a river. We also realized that there
was no way we could climb back up- the mountain was too steep
and the ground too soft. No problem, we'll just find another
way down to the river, cross it, go up the other side of the
mountain, and find the main road to the village. So, we kept
walking along the cliff until we finally found (after many
many wrong turn) a "path" down to the river. It
turn out that the path wasnt, and we were actually walking
downa dry river-bed. Still, no real danger, we would just
go down and cross the river. My forehead started to sting
just as Marc said "Fuck, fire-ants." I looked down
and saw a red ant doing a head stand, trying to dig into my
arm as deep as it possibly could. Shit, were in Africa in
the jungle. I didnt say anything because I was relying on
the positive attitudes of Pete and Marc- no problem, says
Pete, the village is right over there...
I didnt want to being down their spirits, so
I just reminded them to look out for game-traps (I went hunting
the week before and was warned what to look for, so I pointed
it out to them) and watch for snakes. We finally made our
way down to the river, and it felt really safe, like coming
home. We crossed and saw a clearing up ahead, so we followed
the steep slope up to the clearing. But there was no clearing,
just wishful thinking. We kept walking though, because action
felt better that not, and we tried to go as far up as we could
because we knew that there was a road waiting for us somewhere
at the top. But there wasnt, at least there was no way to
get to it. Ok guys, lets just walk back down and stick to
the river. If anything, we can just follow the river into
town. So we went back down to the river, and again it felt
safe. We were scratched up at this point, but nothing too
serious. It was only 2 or so, so we still had over 4 hours
of daylight left. We were walking along the river and having
a great old time, the cold water felt so good, and we had
run out of water (the one bottle we brought) so we could use
the coldness of the river. It seemed like we were getting
somewhere now, always moving forward.
That was about when a black mamba dropped down
from a tree and lunged at Marc. Marc jumped back and I followed
suit. The snake went under the leaves to follow us- Pete saw
it and told us to cross to the other side of the river. We
did and the snake made its way up the opposite side of the
mountain. Shit, we're in the jungles of Africa. The snake
was awake up call to Marc and Pete (Im pretty sure the snake
was on my mind long before we saw it) and we decided that
the only way we would make it out was by making our own path
up to the road. We turned around and made our way up the mountain
and when we couldnt go any further, Pete began to thropw himself
on top of the bush to topple it and make a path. Snakes or
not, we had to get out and there was no other way. Within
about 20 minutes we heard Pete's hurray's and knew we had
made it. The moment I saw the road was one of my happiest
here in Ghana. I honestly didnt know how we were going to
get out of there. We spent the next 45 minutes to town fantasizing
about what we would drink first- water or beer. Water-beer-water-beer-beer.
It ended up being Pepsi and water, but it was the best ever.
From that village we walked another hour and half to Dons.
Bath, dinner, drumming and dancing, and finally sleep. The
next morning we went to see the monkeys, but they were somehow
not as exciting as our adventure.
So, I will not be following Pete for a while,
I dont know if Ive ever worried so much for such a long time
about one thing. My life.Tonight I go hunting again with my
friend Slopey (he's good on the slopes) and we hope to kill.
LAst week we went but after 4 hours and no game, we turned
around and went back.
Wish me luck (Im hoping for bushbuck).
love
Yaniv
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Friends,
Greetings from Ghana! Unlike the past few weeks,
things are going really well right now in my neck of the bush.
After my five star all paid for (by 3 sets of friend's parents)
vacation in Accra, i went back to the village and bought a
machete. The next day I woke up early and began to prepare
my garden for planting.rainy season which will come at the
end of this month. I weeded and hoed and cleared it of all
the junk that had piled up since my predecessor harvested
last year. The next day I weeded the plot of land the lies
in between my out-house and my shower area so that snakes
or anything that I might be scared of wont come to my house.
I havent seen any and people say there aresnt so many, but
I wont take my chances. The only down side is the blisters
because my hands hurt so bad from the machete----ah the woes
of manual labour for an L.A. Jew...
Ive also been working with six young women in
Taviefe (my village) and the headmaster of the junior high
school on getting scholarships for them to go to high school--
money was donated to peace corps and the scholarship will
pay for all three years, something they would never be able
to afford. So ive been feeling more productive and somehow
useful and that feels so good because even if I do one small
thing a day i feel like i did something- since going in to
market on market day is only once every 5 days, I have to
look for things around the village. Planting season has come
just in time to coincide with my boredon. I am going to begin
weeding the farm that I share with my friend Delight and we
are going to get the farm ready for planting season. I cant
wait to start just to have something to do for a few months.
My cheifs mother-in-law had her funeral last
week, but that was nothing compared to ihs wife's funeral
this week.
So many people were there all dressed up and
ready to party (and weep when appropriate). So I said to myself
"yaniv, your cheif's wife doesnt die every day, at least
not the same wife, you should go to the funeral." So,
I went: a choir came, drums and all, and sang so beautifully.
Meanwhile women from the deceased wife's (DW) family were
dancing and crying and shouting. Even when they werent dancing
they were dancing- its a really strange thing to see bceause
the women are just balling and constantly moving in this dance
they do. Its beyong wierd and description. Then the choir,
up till now singing what they call "gospel", now
sang traditional music which is so much cooler. I just walked
around and tape recorded everything meanwhile. The chief was
just sitting there with the elders and as people came to the
area they would bow to him and greet him (the traditional
way of greeting a cheif is to bow down to him and then shake
his hand). He invited me over to sit by him, soI sat next
to him for a while, not really knowing what to say or do.
So I just watched and waited while the DWs body was being
prepared for the showing. After the priest said his prayer
(the cheif is Catholic, supposedly) the chief, elders, mourners,
and myself went in to see the body. The walls were all covered
with white cloth and plastic flowers and the entire room was
illuminated by a green neon light. It was so eerie. In the
center was a table with a huge coffin on it and DW was there,
fresh form the fridge and looking as if asleep. Im really
glad I didnt know or recognize her because it would have been
too much for me to see someone I knew, dead and displayed.
I walked in after the cheif and when it was his turn to view
he stopped and stared at her and smiled so warmly at her and
he spoke to her and blessed her and just kept smiling so lovingly.
It was so sad to watch him I thought I would cry. She was
all wrapped up in Kente (the traditional) cloth and made up
to look like she was just resting, but to me she just looked
so dead and still. Because she was.
So I just tried to get out of there because
the whole thing was so creepy.
So I took my leave and went home and listened
to the tape and wrote in my journal. Then stayed up all night
cursing Africa and Ghana and Taviefe in general as drums and
loud music blasted on loud-speakers wailed through the night.
The next day really sucked because now I was tired and moody
and had to greet the many visitors. It sucks to stand out
so much.
So, a full week and that feels good.
Tomorrow I am going to the beach with some friends
and Ill celebrate my 23rd birthday there on Thursday, so it
should great.
I hope you are all happy and healthy. Write
when you can.
love
Yaniv
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Dear All,
greetings from Ghana. The weather at my site
is great these days. The rainy seaseon is here and so the
cool winds have followed. In the mornings I just sit outside
and watch everyone wake up--ok, thats a lie. By the time I
wake up at 5:30 or 6:00 everyone has been up for about an
hour or more, doing the morning greetings and sweeping (women
sweep every morning using brooms they make out of palm-fronds).
So, in the mornings I sit outside and everyone watches me
wake up. Those in my are will come to me to greet me and ask
me if I woke up, to which I have to answer, Yes mami (or papa)
I woke up strong today. So the winds blow and the rain falls
and the kids run around in the rain and their parents dont
tell them to stop so they dont get dirty. Kids can pretty
much do anything here and no one worries about it. I then
send my small girl to buy me breakfast (in Ghana everyone
has a small girl or a small boy, which is someone who you
send on errands for you when you are too lazy to go yourself.
Their age in anywhere from 5 - younger than you are. My small
girl is 5 and my small boy is about 15. Okay, I dont really
send them for me becuase I feel bad having slaves, but when
I went to buy my own breakfast my mom told me I shouldnt go
and wouldnt let me go and insisted I send her granddaughter
to buy breakfast for me... its a shody excuse I know, but
how can I argue with the woman who cooks for me? Can I bite
the hand that feeds me? Its only right I listen to her, no
matter how aweful it is, like sending someone to do my dirty
work for me. The crosses we bear.....)
I'm still farming these days. My hands are completely
calloused and I dont really feel the pains of a machete anymore
which makes me feel like such a stud. But compared to Ghanains
I am such a smallboy myself. I even went out and bought a
farmer's bag for carrying my toold to farm, so now everyone
laughs at me even more than before, but I feel good toting
that bag around like a real life manual labourer. Now the
weeding is done and the corn is planted. My mom sent me seeds
so I am going to plant white-man vegetables this week- cabbage,
lettuce, tomatoes, bell-peppers....all the expensive goods
they sell at market will now be free for me! Which is good
because I get so few vegetables to eat here- the typical Ghanain
dish is about 50% oil and 50% heavy starch. ANyhow, Ill let
you know if the garden comes a long, it probably wont with
my lacking skills (even though I am an official Peace Corps
Forrestry/Environmental Volunteer...
This past week I have been in Accra leaving
stool samples everyday because the nurse thinks I have parasites
somewhere in my digestive system. Ive been having very minor
stomahc cramps, very low fever and small small diarrhea (thats
Ghanain English "Please give me small small ketchup with
my yam fries". "I am small sick today"). So,
really no big deal but peace corps is overl;y cautious and
Ive been forced to stay in Accra for a week while they are
running tests. The interesting thing is that when I am here
and I can get American food and be in air conditioned hotel
rooms and watch BBC and CNN and Discovery Channel on TV and
I see many white people, this is also the time when I question
myself the most and feel my loneliest. In the village I hadly
ever get lonely and sad, maybe just bored sometimes but never
sad. Here I ask myself what the hell are you doing here and
why not just go home- so, I cant wait to go back to site and
relax and feel good about Ghana and peace corps again, which
is sure to happen. Meanwhile I am so excited about going to
Israel in June that it occupies my thought daily- all that
family, all that McDonalds.
Hope youre all well, no parasites or any other
gastro-intestinal illnesses.
love
Yaniv
_______________________
Dear all,
greetings from Ghana. I am in Accra, yet again,
after even more training sessions. Luckily training season
is over and I wont have to worry about it again. Most of teh
sessions are on ly mandatory for first year volunteers, so
from now on Ill be at my site more, again. I spent all day
today travelling to a place in the middle of nowhere to buy
oil-palm seeds, only to find out when I got there that they
were still germinating, but I was more than welcome to "place
an order for July ending." Sweet. So I placed my order,
ate a cola nut for some strength and alertness, and headed
out of nowhere back into Accra. All over, Ive been travelling
for 8 and a half hours and am now trying to stop being angry
at everyone around me, moodiness having kicked in paaaaaaaaa
(plenty in Twi). Trips around this country are always interesting
on many levels, which really does make them more tolerable
than they might otherwise be. For instance, if ever I have
a question about getting somewhere, there is always someone
to show me how to get there faster and more comfortably, through
some wierd path on a certain bush taxi. Ghanains are so helpful,
even if it means walking a few miles to show me where something
is, ratehr than directing me there and chancing me getting
lost (this happened today a few times). Another time (and
this story has nothign to do with teh last by the way) I was
driving into Accra and the driver kept having to pull over
to dump water on the car, which was apparently catching on
fire every 30 minutes or so. Finally, after about 3 or 4 episodes
of pulling off the road to extinguish fires, the driver decided
to apologize to us and assure us it wasnt the car catching
fire, but the plastic bags of cloth that he had tied around
the exhaust pipe to avoid customs officers. And, Ghana is
so beautiful wherever I happen to travel to, that even if
its a horribly tiring or uncomfortable trip, its always nice
to look out the windows and enjoy the views (even if, such
as happened this morning, the woman that was sitting next
to me fell asleep while breastfeeding her baby so I had to
hold her baby's head up when he too decided to take a nap).
So now Im goign to the village and thinking
about moving into a new house, one a bit closer to other househiolds
so that I feel more integrated into teh community. As of now,
Im living in a small house in a beautiful setting, but its
somehow not so close to anyone. So Im thinking about moving
into the hut that the clan cheif uses as a kitchen. Thats
it for now, nothing too exciting excpet for my trip to Israel
in about 2 weeks.
I hope all is well with everyone.
love
Yaniv
_______________________
Friends and Family,
Greetings from Ghana. September is the major
rainy season, and so the weather is accordingly cool and wet.
"Cool" is, of course, a relative term. It is somewhere
around 78 which is so comfortable. I even had to put on a
sweatshirt last night and it felt, so right. The major problem
for me is that when it rains, life stops. There is nowhere
to go, nothing to do. so I sat in the house all day and read
The Color Purple, finished it, read 3 Newsweek magazines,
and began Uncle Toms Cabin. It finally stopped raining, which
is when I put my sweatshirt on and went to visit a few friends.
As the world mourns the attacks on New York
and DC (and, according to George Bush, on Democracy and our
way of life....), So do Ghanains grieve and tell me how sorry
they are for me and m,y people. When the attcks occurred I
was at a trainming session outside of Accra and someone turned
on the TV during our afternoon break. Ghana TV was broadcasting
CNN live and we all watched in complete shock and horror as
the first tower went down (previously recorded). Sessions
were cancelled for the rest of the day as the 15 or so volunteers
and many Ghanains stayed glued to the TV in disbelief as the
second tower went down live. Some friends went to a communications
center nearby to phone home. Is this really happening in America?
Some Ghanain trainers wore black the rest of the week to show
their solidarity in mourning for the victims.
My most sincere condolences to those of you
who know someone who was killed or who is still missing.
Meanwhile, the world just wont stop turning.
I have been here (tomorrow, the 21st of Sep.) for exactly
one year, so only 14 months to go. The days seem to move so
slowly sometimes, but the months pass by too fast to keep
up with. As I think Ive mentioned already, I have been asked
to help with the training of the new group of volunteers coming
in. They were supposed to arrive on the 25th but it seems
that they have been delayed because of the attacks and wont
come until the first week of October--As I write this letter
in preparation to type it out on the computer tomorrow, I
am listening to Prime Minister Shimon Peres being interviewed
on BBC radio. Peres just asked the interviewer to "hold
on" while he answers a phone call. The interviewer reminded
Peres that he was live but the Prime Minister seems not to
care....only in Israel. So I am now looking forward to meeting
a new group of volunteers and to another year in Ghana. After
the football tournament, our next project is to build a humid-house
in which to grow mushrooms (legal), the proceeds from which
will go to building a community youth center, I hope. Thats
all for now.
yours,
Yaniv
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YANIV'S PLEA FOR DONATIONS IN GHANA:
snir3000@hotmail.com
Family and Friends,
greetings from Ghana. I am doing well, trying
to keep busy, and I REALLY need your help on my next initiative
here. Since my nursery work is completed for the meantime,
I am undertaking a new project in gender & youth development
and community development as a whole. My plan is to set up
a fund which we can use to start a girls education club, help
improve our community's school facilities, and finish construction
of the Youth Center which was begun by the previous volunteer
but halted due to a serious lack of funding.
The goals of each of the three above projects
are:
1)girls education club: needed because many
parents dont want their gilrs in formal education due to many
different social reasons. So the idea is to be able to take
girls around Ghana for a hands-on learning experience. Maybe
every couple months, I and another adult will be able to take
girls to Accra, museums, theatrical shows, AIDS hospices,
the Volta Lake, national parks, womens cooperatives, orphanages,
the OCEAN!! I think it will be an awesome opportunity for
the girls, and very needed.
2)schools: our schools need to replace outdated
educational materials and other supplies, they need to be
repainted, and we would like to paint a mural of the world
on the main building
3)the community center will be a place to hang
out, play ping pong and volleyball or soccer, read in the
library (which will be established), and to hold community
meetings.
SO... we really need your help in raising the
needed funds, desperately. If you can donate money yourself,
hold a fundraiser, advertize at school, church, synagogue,
your philanthropic friends, employers, your family, garage
sale, ANYTHING. Please please please contribute any way you
can.
please send donations to : Adit Snir (my mom who will get
the funds to me)
22350 Germain Street #4
Chatsworth, CA 91311
Thank you in advance,
peace and love
Yaniv
feel free to write back with questions
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