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December 22, 2002:
Crazy changes in weather in Beijing have thrown
us innocent foreigners into a frenzy. From sweaty, balmy,
t-shirt at night climate to frigid mitten wearing days. I
feel like I slept through autumn, not sure where it went.
The supply of thermal underwear at the local supermarket has
kept us alive, profiting greatly from us unprepared Californians.
Most harsh was the lack of heating in our building, until
just recently. Collectively controlled by the government,
their anticipated startup date was Nov. 15th. Early cold weather
spell ensured that even midday in our apartment, you could
marvel at your breath condensing in the air. This we feel
is not normal!
Our apartment came without the most basic of
items: a fridge. But that is no problem now. The outside veranda
is sufficient refrigeration, for anything but ice cream. The
result of this cold weather is unexpected changes to our psyche
and psysiology. Periods of irritability are not uncommon,
as is a general refusal to exercise our sappy bodies. It is
increasingly difficult to crawl out of the blankets in the
frosty morning, and make it to the bathroom to "convenience
yourself", as the chinese say. The slap in the face comes
when you peak out the window and discover the dozens of 70
to 80 year olds are in the patio below, diligently practicing
tai chi or their fan-wielding dances, as if it were mid July.
Not sure how they get their bodies in motion at such inhospitable
temperatures. Perhaps its the same perplexion others have
when I plunge into the ocean for a pre-dawn surf sesh. So
I guess I can sympathize...
The old folds in this country are phenomenal.
It's as close to utopia for those of "advanced age"
as is possible. In driveways, parks, under highway overpasses,
every morning hundreds are out perfecting their bodies for
ancestral veneration. Whole communities of ball room dancers,
drum circles, tai chi, and innumerable eccentric ways to stretch
your calf muscle. When I first arrived in Beijing I was struck
by the number of playgrounds scattered around town. Turns
out they're all exercise "toys" for the old folks.
Must see to believe. So wonderful it warms the heart in the
coldest days!! Hurray to corney one-liners at the end of the
paragraph.
Cheers,
Kristian
P.S. After weeks of gossip and misleading reports,
"they" have turned on the heaters, earlier than
scheduled!! Bless the flexible and sympathetic souls of the
central government.
_____________________________
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